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TOPIC: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required

Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 7 months ago #103

Hi Guys,
I am planning for an expedition to Nun and Kun(7,135 m &7,077 m ),sister peaks in the next climbing season.i would like to seek help regarding it,i want to know the climbing route,permits required for it,and also i am looking for the company which can organize the expedition or the guide who can help me in logistics support and building my itinerary for it.i heard that for this particular peak you need a special permission from ministry of defence?? is that so??.As of now i have 2 other friends who will be joining me in the team and other experienced climbers who would like to explore these peaks,are welcome to join..:D.It would be great of the people over here to help me out on this..:)

Thanks
  • rachit
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Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 7 months ago #112

Hi Rachit,

In 2010, i was part of an expedition to Num from Pune. I went to Base camp of the Nun (in fact, Advanced base camp and a bit above) as I was short of time. I think I can try to answer few of your queries here.

So, first, you will need to decide if you want to climb Nun or Kun. Climbing both of these peaks in one single expedition does not seem to be feasible,because of time and effort required. Though, these are sister peaks, they don't share any camps the routes are totally different from base to top. Our target was Nun so I will share that info.

Route:
delhi-leh - flight/road
leh-kargl-Tangol/Tongul Village (3400m) - private vehicle
Tangol - BC(4200m) - about 4 hrs trek/climb to reach traditional Base camp. route goes through rock fall region for about 2 hours. need to be careful
Base Camp - Advance BC (4600m)- 4-5 hrs climb . route passed from moraines and involves crossing glacier / snowfield. no technical equipment is required though. to reach ABC one need to climb lateral moraine about 100 feet which is tricky as its very steep unstable terrain. ABC has a very good kitchen built by previous army expedition. Its huge. You need a large tarpaulin to cover it :). Not a very great place for other tents.
ABC to CI (5400m)- a steep climb starts from ABC to CI. route is all snow fields with some patches of loose rocks. above 5100 meters there is an ice wall of about 200m. It's a ice fall actually, and it the most crucial part of the climb. depending of the season and the snowfall the conditions of the terrain can differ. If snow if more crossing this section becomes very easy but, if there is no snow the this section will turn into a tricky climb. Then a lot of technical climbing requires and hughe amount of rope is also required for this section. This may take several (3-4 or even more) days to fix this route.

once you cross this barrier there is a huge snowfield (roughly 3 kms ) that you need to cross. Camp I is setup in this snow field some where middle of the field.

above camp i , Cam II and Camp II can be setup at 6000 mtrs and 6400 mtrs respectively. This route is all technical and needs extensive rope fixing. from Camp III 735 mtrs cam be climbed for summit. This route is from west ridge of the mountain.

Yes, you need good logistical support for this. this is pretty interior peak and kargil to Tangol journey is very tiring as roads are
not that great. you may contact Rimo Expeditions in Leh. They are best in business and can arrange the required support.

Permits: Its better to get approval from IMF Delhi. so they will guide you in case any additional permits are required. as far as i know no special permits are required. this area does not fall in inner line or so. just carry your valid Photo ID's in case required. there are army establishment enrote and you may need to go through some checking etc.

Additional Notes: Leh has few good equipment shops where u can buy stuff required for your expeditions.
hope this helps. let me know if you need any more info
  • skorpion
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Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 7 months ago #117

Hi Rachit,

I have gone through this 2 years back through a trekking agency and in my experience , there are a very few trekking agencies in India who can provide you good and sincere support ( of all kinds - permissions, logistics , qualified sherpa's , good equipment etc ) for a 7000 mts + expeditions .

I was in touch with one for Nun and at the end they said they could not get permissions from IMF . So have to do "Peak booking" with IMF , for which the agency needs to do some paper work and they should have prior experience in doing so.

So all I can say go with an agency who has done this at-least on 2 - 3 occasions before , the process is a little time consuming , so start the paper work at-least 6 months in advance and its expensive , so have a good budget , at-least a 1 - 1.2 lacs per head , if its a good commercial agency .

All the BEST !
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Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 6 months ago #130

Great! That was a very detailed reply from @skorpion. Can you post some photos of this expedition please, if possible? Also if we can have some info about what type of rope fixing is required, that would be nice!
  • DonAmit
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Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 6 months ago #131

@skorpion and @trek_tomato..Thanks a lot guys for the in-depth information regarding Mt.Nun...it will definitely will help a lot for my expedition.i have noted down all your points but i have two more questions
1.What is physical fitness required for it,i know it's a very stupid question but my main objective is to get the idea how strength-nous and how technical, is this peak.So i can have that kind of mindset?
2.What is best time you suggest for climbing?
  • rachit
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Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 6 months ago #132

Hi Rachit,

The peak is considered to be a non-technical peak. but Its a demanding climb. Height of 7135 ft in itself is a good challenge . Its known as a cold mountain. so extreme cold is one more challenge.
So fitness wise yes, you need to focus on it as much as possible. because in general more you are fit more you enjoy the climb.

time - best time in this are is july-august. peak is climbed in september as well, but IMO the the ice wall i mentioned is in my above reply , becomes more technical as snow is melted away by then and what you have to tackle is slippery hard ice and open crevasses.
  • skorpion
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Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 6 months ago #133

Aha... I have very fond memmories of this mountain. The plateu above the icefall is just amazing. I guess RIMO is the best in the Leh and Ladhakh region. Although this is not in the inner lines you might expect some trouble from the security agencies, since this is very sensitive area.

I hope you and your team have enough experience of expediting into Himalayas. As per IMF this is technical peak, which requires to satisfy their mandatory norms related to venturing into mountaineering expeditions in Indian Himalaya. Expectation is you should have mastered the art of dealing with the terrain i. e. hard icewalls and snow.

Kun is perceived as more technical climb as compared to Nun.

But in all, Leh-Kargil-Suru valley awesome...
Best of Luck for your endevour!
  • Sahay
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Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 3 months ago #368

Hi Rachit, Did you collected any additional info regarding NUN expedition from IMF. If yes, please share the same?

Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 2 months ago #425

Hi Rachit,
I am new to the forum and became interested when I read your post about a possible Nun-Kun 2013 expedition. I am also looking for more information about these climbs, particularly on Kun mountain. I don't think it is common that climbers attempt both peaks in the same period since the inner plateau between the summits is rather vast. Please let me know if you have identified any further information about possible climbing companies who provide logistics and guiding on the mountain. I do not know if it is appropriate on the forum to list the names of companies who provide commercial climbing services, but I am not a lead climber (yet!) and would prefer to have this trip fully guided. I do note that White Magic (based in Delhi) offers a fully supported Kun expedition. Please let me know what you interest is for 2013. Kind regards.
  • GeoGreg
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Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 2 months ago #426

Hi GeoGreg,

Welcome to the forum . Can suggest one company which I know who does it and has some good experience in doing this - ' RIMO expeditions ' , originally based out of Leh .

Where are you based out of and when do you plan to do this expedition , Is it this summer ? Also, are you looking at some like minded people to join this .

Dont know of many commercial organizations who do this , hope we can get some good Info on the forum .

Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 2 months ago #429

Hello grape_bus700,
Thanks for the reply. I am based out of Tucson, Arizona. I was considering an attempt at climbing Kun this upcoming summer 2013. I have completed high altitude climbs in N America, the Andes, and the Mongolia Altaids, and some high elevation trekking in Nepal too. However, since Kun is very remote, very high, and moderately technical I was seeking an experienced India-based commercial company to organize and guide the expedition. I have identified one company that offers this trip (White Magic, Delhi). They appear quite experienced and prepared to lead this program in 2013; they have set dates for 2013 but of course they require a minimum of climbers to run the expedition (minimum 2-4?). I am interested in their program, and would ask others interested in their offering to contact them. If anyone on the forum has interest in this program or further information about Kun/Nun mountains, please let me know. This appears to be a very beautiful region and a stunning mountain group. All the best from sunny Tucson.
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Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 2 months ago #431

Hi Geo Greg ,

Good to know your are seriously pursuing this climb , I have just finalized an expedition that me and my friend would be taking up in the Nepal Himalaya's this summer , Would have loved to joined otherwise , Have been eyeing this peak for sometime now .

If you dont mind , do share the tentative dates and the approx. range of pricing , May have a few friends or people on this forum , who might be interested to join .

Will keep in touch .

Regards

Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 2 months ago #432

Hi grape_bus700,
It's great to know you will be enjoying some adventure in the Nepal Himalaya this year. Good luck with your training.

I continue to gather information about the 2013 Kun expedition offered by White Magic.
Their stated dates for the climb are: 10 July - 04 August.
I think the overall costs vary, perhaps dependent on whether you are a foreigner (like me)
or if you are an Indian citizen. Details of the climb can be found at:
www.whitemagicadventure.com/details/kun.html

Please, if anyone is interested in this expedition, contact White Magic so we can insure that the trip will run.
I will continue to post my plans here on the forum, so that others can also consider joining.

from sunny Arizona...
  • GeoGreg
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Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 1 month ago #435

Hi Geo Greg,

Yes you are right , the cost does vary depending on Nationality sometimes as the permit for a citizen is different etc .

Its a brilliant climb & Iam sure you will have a good experience , Do continue to share your plans and itinerary on the forum and you may find some like minded people.

Are you climbing some other peak in the region before to acclimatize , as the region is a cold desert and very different than the usual Himalaya's we experience .

Regards

Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 1 month ago #514

Hi Geo Greg ,

How are you doing , How is the preparation for the Nun-Kun expedition coming along . Have you finalized on your dates and the climbing company .

Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 1 month ago #515

Hi grape_bus700,
Yes, my plans are coming together nicely. I will be climbing Kun on a guided expedition offered by White magic Mountaineering.
The trip is running from July 10-August 4, 2013. There have been a few other climbers interested, and I am hoping some of them join this trip. Please if anyone is interested in this great expedition opportunity, contact White Magic as soon as possible (www.whitemagicadventure.com/). They appear to have an excellent, well experienced staff of climbers and logistical support. I look forward to my first trip to India this year. FYI: I will also be enjoying some general high-altitude trekking in Ladakh before the Kun expedition. All the best from Arizona. Geo Greg
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Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years, 1 month ago #516

Sounds interesting Greg. All the best for your climb. Hoping to see some great pics and story.
  • skorpion
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Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 7 years ago #522

Good stuff Greg . Thats brilliant to know . Wish you all the Best .

Will look forward to hear from you about all your experiences .

Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 6 years, 11 months ago #643

Hi Rachit, are you still doing this? I was planning to climb this peak in July or thereabouts.
I have climbed a lot in Ladakh. KY1, Mentok 1 and 2, Chumser and Lungser. Obviously been putting off Nun/Kun for the last few years for want of climbing partners.

Lemme know if you are still working on this one.
Jerry
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Re: Climbing Nun Kun Information Required 6 years, 11 months ago #644

Hi Greg,

Is Nun/Kun happening? I sent a mail across to whitemagic; yet to hear from them.
I have climbed a lot in Ladakh and been putting off Nun/Kun only for want of partners. Have you extended an advance to those guys at whitemagic yet? What kind of support are they offering you? If you can find the time to address these queries, I would appreciate it. Also if you can share anything useful that you think I should know, please do let me know.

I have spoken with a dozen agencies doing Nun/Kun but their quotes seem unreasoably high to me. I will in all probability be using the services of a friend who does logistics for treks and expeditions in Ladakh. But was keen to know about whitemagic as well. Appreciate your time and efforts on this.

Thanks in advance,
Jerry
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