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TOPIC: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen.

indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 9 months, 1 week ago #1178

India is a land of big mountains, we have got himalaya range in our lap, so it's no surprise our counyry have produced loads of quality mountaineers, and may of them have summites everest successfully, so i wanted to know how many indian mountainers have climbed everest without the aid of supplemental oxygen??
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Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 9 months ago #1179

Don't know how you mean "quality mountaineers".
If you're referring to
1. The hundreds of sherpas who open routes for most commercial and army expeditions

Or

2. Those brave soldiers who make sure that majority of the army expeditions are successful, then true; we have indeed produced a lot of quality mountaineers.

If you're referring to the thousands of people (clients) sumitting Everest left right center on commercial trips.... then I don't know ..

Indian summits of Everest without oxygen...Not many. Even the Indian army soldiers use oxygen on Everest. I can think of at least 2 people who have done this without oxygen. Surprisingly they are both civilians. So apparently there are a few... but not many.
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Last Edit: 9 months ago by jerrypothen.

Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 4 weeks ago #1180

thanks Jerrypothen, i am making the list of Indian Mountaineers who have successfully climbed 8000m peak without the aid of supplemental oxygen, wether let it be sherpa, indian army mountaineers or private mountaineer, till now i have been only able to get one name Phu Dorjee, it would be really helpful if you can help me with this list.
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Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 4 weeks ago #1182

Hi kunal. It's highly improbable to compile such a list. I am very certain phu dorjee is not the only one. Most army personnel will have used O2. Sherpas use O2 on commercial trips. Unfortunately most Sherpa ascents are not even properly tabulated. So even if someone has made an ascent without O2, its probably not properly recorded. Apart from Phu Dorjee one name that comes to mind is a friend's friend called Subrata. I'll check in my circles if someone has a source to better address your query.
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Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 3 weeks ago #1185

Hi Jerry, really appreciate your mountaineering knowledge and social circle, please do check if you can get any information on this, i was also wondering could Indian Mountaineering Foundation could have list or data of mountaineers who climbed without O2.
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Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 3 weeks ago #1186

hi Kunal,

More than the IMF I would expect NMA to maintain a better more accurate list. But like I said, Sherpa summits are rarely documented accurately. It's worth a try though. May I ask why you are so curious about this list??

No concerns... Just curious :)
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Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 3 weeks ago #1187

i am new to this world of mountaineering, and from the newbie point of view mt Everest is the ultimate mountain to step foot on being the world highest but now days with the Sherpa guidance and with a load of money anyone can climb it, but the ultimate test of it is when you do it without O2 or solo ascent, that's why i wanted to compile a list of few of the elite climbers from India who have done it the right way.
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Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 3 weeks ago #1189

Hi Kunal,

Since you're starting out. And since you wanna do things the right way... Please allow me to put things in perspective. None of what I am about to say is meant to discourage you .. Just my two pence worth. Take it for what it's worth.

1. About Everest being the ultimate
There are peaks which are technically a lot more difficult than the commercial route on everest. Granted a lot of these 8000+/peaks are in Pakistan. But Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Kanchenjunga etc are all in Nepal (Kanchenjunga can't be climbed from India) and are technically intense.

2. About climbing solo.
Perhaps you're right. But people who climb in a group or with a partner are in no way inferior to solo climbers. Besides, even solo climbers need logistical support till the base camp or high camp... It is impossible for a solo climber to haul all the technical equipment, ropes, anchors, and other hardware to the base camp. For some technical routes, this can add upto 100s of pounds which is impossible to carry for just one person.

3. Oxygen.
I personally have never used Oxygen and I doubt I will ever use it. But on the other hand I am yet to ascend an 8000 m peak. But I have no qualms about someone using O2 on a climb as long as he/she is carrying it. The thing with most commercial trips is that on the summit day the client (or supposed climber) is likely to use 5-6 O2 cylinders. And these are carried by the Sherpa. That's the part I have a problem with. To me that's just unfair. Climbing on the back of a Sherpa and taking credit at the end of it all. If the said climber had carried all of this stuff to the summit camp and above, who is to say that it's not the right way to climb. If he/she needs chicken at 25000 ft, then he/she should be allowed to have it. And if he/she carries the chicken packets... Whats wrong with that. In the same stroke, if someone needs O2 at camp 4, I don't see it being a problem as long as they are carrying it themselves. In fact carrying the cylinders to camp 4 and then to the summit would be even more difficult in my opinion. Unfortunately, these are carried up there by the poor Sherpa who fades into oblivion after the expedition while the so called climber comes back home, seemingly triumphant expecting money from every possible Avenue for something that should actually be done with some passion and not for monetary gains.

4. The fixation with Everest or for that matter 8000+ peaks. In my opinion it is overrated. Even the best climbers in the world will attest to the fact that their toughest climbs are sub 8000m peaks. In some cases sub 7000 or in the US or Europe even sub 4000m. There are so many challenging objectives in the world. The fixation with Everest, and this lust for recognition - to be the "first" from a country, state, city (and may be in the near future we will talk of first from such and such Street) is the reason for this sub standard commercial sort of "climbing".

I have no problems with easy climbs. Personally I try to balance between reasonably technical and "sort of easy" solo Alpine stuff. But as long as the person is really doing stuff on ones own, instead of standing on someone elses back, I think it's OK to do what one is comfortable with.

I hope this puts things in perspective.
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Last Edit: 8 months, 3 weeks ago by jerrypothen.

Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 3 weeks ago #1190

it's nice you put the light on this topic, i am also not opposed to using O2 for climbing but the thing is it you should carry your own stuff and don't leave the empty bottles up on the mountain, and i also agree with you there are more technically hard climbs other than Everest like you mentioned, but Everest being the highest of them all has always attracted high altitude junkies, and the difficult part of about it is it's height not technical (it is in some parts) and by using 02 it's like having a cheat code up there for climbing, and i really respect your decision to not use O2 it gives u a chance to be at your most natural state up there with nature.
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Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 3 weeks ago #1191

I suppose the Crux of the matter is that if you want to climb Everest (or any peak) the way you desire or dream of doing it--

The presence of the list won't inspire you any more
The absence of it shouldn't discourage you :)

I'd say go out there and do some adventures. Be it solo, without oxygen or with, do it Alpine style or expeditions style. Just do it with some dignity, instead of having it laid out for you.

Best wishes!!



PS: try not to be fixated on 8000m peaks. There is so much fun to be had. :)
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Last Edit: 8 months, 3 weeks ago by jerrypothen.

Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 3 weeks ago #1192

said like a true adventurer, really appreciate your thinking and also feel lucky to meet u will just do what i desire in a dignified way..thanks a lot!!!
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Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 3 weeks ago #1193

True !! Everest on the commercial route is technical in parts. But.. I have met people who cannot wear a crampon or use an ice axe, but have summitted Everest. That's insane.

Using O2! I still don't see it as cheating as long as it's being hauled by oneself. Here is my philosophy. I don't care if we are doing the toughest wall known to man or an easy hike in the sahyadris. One ought to do it one self. Using the services of a cook or a Sherpa is acceptable. But having them climb for you ??? That's preposterous.

It's like Ranatunga scoring all those 100s with a stand in runner. Sorry dude! That's cheating. A client climbing on the back of a Sherpa is worse than Ranatunga using a runner.
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Last Edit: 8 months, 3 weeks ago by jerrypothen.

Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 3 weeks ago #1194

haha..so true i agree with what you say, at the end of the day the adventure is only real if it excites you, make you feel joyous in the way you have never felt before, i too want it to be in the same way.
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Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 3 weeks ago #1195

Very true

Ultimately one must do what makes one happy.
Best wishes to you in all your endeavors ..
Do chime in here from time to time with inputs or queries.

As for the list, I have sent a couple of mails. Will update here for your benefit if I get something solid.
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Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 3 weeks ago #1196

i would really appreciate, your contribution to this post with some solid names, gonna fill up my form in coming days for bmc if i get any queries i will surely p. m..peace!!!
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Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 8 months, 3 weeks ago #1197

Kunal,

www.everest1953.co.uk/mount-everest-facts

A friend shared this with me ... Thought you might be intrigued by this. Although not a comprehensive list of Everest summitters sans oxygen, it might be of some academic interest to you.

I am usually not one to post stats and records on mountaineering forums. But I am making an exception here since you really seem to be into this. :)

I hope you find your list, but I can assure you, this site is just as engaging.
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Re: indians summiting everest without supplemental oxygen. 5 months ago #1227

Hi Kunal,

One of my acquaintances shared This Link with me.

I repeat such lists and records are of no use to me personally; in fact most things "everest" seldom excite me. But ... I promised to check with my friends and one of them reverted with this list. Unfortunately still not much luck on the "summit sans Oxygen" list. Thought you might find this of some academic interest.
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