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TOPIC: Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar ascend Janak (7,041m) via a new route up the 1,400m west face

Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar ascend Janak (7,041m) via a new route up the 1,400m west face 7 years, 4 months ago #262

Young Slovenians Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar, who earlier this year were awarded a Piolet d'Or for their fast and minimalist first ascent of the west face of K7 West in 2011, have made the second ascent of Janak (7,041m) via a new route up the 1,400m west face.

After setting up base camp in Lonak on the normal trekking route to north Kangchenjunga base camp in remote Far East Nepal, they subsequently made a lengthy journey north to establish an advanced base on the rarely visited Chijima Glacier, west of the peak.

They then set off for Janak's unclimbed west face. The pair originally planned a line up the centre but because of poor snow conditions were forced further right, joining the upper section of the southwest pillar after ca1,150m. From here they followed the last 350m of the Stremfelj-Zalokar route to the summit.

They made one bivouac high on the mountain after joining the southwest pillar, reached the summit next day at around 2pm, and were back at advanced base by 11pm the same day.

Their route involved much hard ice, though the main difficulties were not the climbing technicalities, which were relatively reasonable, but low temperatures and strong winds on the second day.

For more info, see this - www.thebmc.co.uk/2012-piolets-dor-recipi...limb-janak-west-face

Re: Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar ascend Janak (7,041m) via a new route up the 1,400m west face 7 years, 4 months ago #263

A couple of related pics on our Pinterest board-
pinterest.com/pin/329748003936200319/
pinterest.com/pin/329748003936200320/
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