" The mountains have rules. they are harsh rules, but they are there, and if you keep to them you are safe. A mountain is not like men. A mountain is sincere. The weapons to conquer it exist inside you, inside your soul." -Walter Bonatti.
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TOPIC: Conrad Anker - leader of the first successful team to summit Mount Meru

Conrad Anker - leader of the first successful team to summit Mount Meru 7 years, 4 months ago #295

On 30th September 2011, the North Face athlete Conrad Anker, along with Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk summitted one of the last great unclimbed features of the Himalayas by topping out on the Shark’s Fin route on the northwest face of 20,700-foot Meru in the Garhwal Himalaya.

In an article for sportsvibe, Ian Stafford writes this. Conrad Anker, the American climber, most famous for leading the first successful team to summit Mount Meru in India last year, and the man who discovered the body of George Mallory on the high slopes of Mount Everest, appeared in the North Face Speaker Series. The 49-year-old from Montana spoke on stage and presented his spine-chilling documentary recounting his and his two partners’ successful summit of Meru. Anker has lost so many friends and mentors to the sport of mountaineering over the 30 years he has been climbing, including his closest mentor, Mugs Stump, who was killed in a crevasse on Denali.

It was Stump’s dream to conquest Meru but he twice failed and Anker vowed to finish the job for his friend. Twice Anker failed as well, the second time, in 2008, taking the agonizing decision to turn back just 100 metres from the summit. This is what the best climbers do. They recognize when the mountain has beaten them, and remember that the first objective is always to return home alive. Last year, however, with his faithful two climbing buddies, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk, he made mountaineering history by crossing the infamous “Shark’s Fin” ridge and summiting, a triumph of perseverance and will against everything the elements could throw at him. It was third time lucky, or “third strike” as Anker put it, and this time the Holy Mountain let him be.

Anker also told of his discovery of Mallory 13 years’ ago, the British climber who, with Sandy Irvine, may or may not have reached the top of the world in 1924. Climbers argue that, in all probability he failed to do so, but Anker told me not only was Mallory’s an amazing feat regardless because of the facilities and equipment he used at that time, but that it is better if we never know the real truth, and that the myth and mystery of Mallory continues forever.

Read more at- sportsvibe.co.uk/diary/other/conrad-anke...rs-mountaineer-21000
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